In the world of fashion that changes frequently, sometimes it is the simplicity that captures our hearts. This is exactly what is happening with the GAT shoes (German Army Trainers), unisex sneakers that were born decades ago and became the sought-after item of 2024.
What is the secret that turned a simple military shoe into a coveted fashion item?
We dived deep into the phenomenon to understand why everyone wants a pair, and how they can be combined in Israeli style.
"If I don't want to wear boots or something crazy, I wear my GAT and it just works," a 26-year-old guy from Las Vegas tells the Wall Street Journal. It references the German Army Training Shoes, a unisex sneaker with a thin rubber sole, white leather on the upper, gray suede details around the toe and minimal branding. These quiet and stylish shoes were probably created in the 1970s or early 1980s for the German military.
Today, with simple retro sneakers experiencing a resurgence, the GAT is back on the scene in a big way. According to Rachel McCar, senior director of merchandising at resale site StockX, the most popular GAT is the Adidas BW Army shoe. Between January and July 2024, its sales jumped 3,500% compared to last year.
The origins of the GAT are not entirely clear. Puma allegedly designed the prototype for the German Army, and Adidas supplied the BW Army boots to the Bundeswehr in the 1980s and 1990s. Hundreds of thousands of pairs were supplied to the military in the latter part of the 20th century.
One of the most famous GAT versions today is the Replica shoe by Maison Margiela, at a price of 670 dollars (which is about NIS 2500 in a quick calculation). But cheaper versions can be found at brands like Oliver Cabell ($199) and the cult Slovak brand Novesta (about $160). Even mainstream brands like J.Crew and Urban Outfitters offer their own versions, indicating the shoe's growing popularity.
London-based celebrity stylist Rose Ford attributes the GAT's success to its simplicity, calling it a "blank canvas" that can accommodate looks that range from grunge to haute couture. Susan Carol Cooper, a 43-year-old design studio manager from Glasgow, Scotland, tells The Wall Street Journal that she prefers GAT over colorful sneakers because they fit her vintage and workwear look.
When it comes to styling, Gauthier Bourserello, the creative director of the Parisian brand Fursac, recommends avoiding pants that are too wide that can overwhelm the thin shoes. "The pants should fall a little over the GAT, but not too much," he says.
If you want vintage original GATs, try looking on Etsy or eBay, and expect to pay around $70, according to Bursarello. He recommends taking a size up, because "they look better when they're tied tight."
In Israel, this trend is starting to gain momentum, with leading fashion stores starting to carry versions of the GAT. This is a great opportunity to add a classic and versatile item to your shoe closet, which will match any look - from jeans and a t-shirt to elegant suit pants.
With the hot Israeli summer, the GATs offer a comfortable and ventilated alternative to heavier sneakers, making them a perfect choice for city walks or light evening outings. It seems that the GATs are not just a passing trend, but a smart investment in a classic shoe that will serve you for a long time.