Athens in autumn is like fine wine that ages slowly - each sip reveals new layers of flavor and depth. The ancient streets, which in the summer are full of bright red tourists after spending hours in the sun, empty out a little and allow a more intimate look into the soul of the city. The air is filled with the aromas of Greek coffee and cinnamon, and the soft sunlight colors the ancient columns in shades of gold and peach.
I came to Athens with the arrival of autumn as a guest of the ALUMA hotel chain. I went on a two-day visit to the Greek capital - which left me wanting more. The goal was not only to visit the famous sites, but also to experience Athens as the locals experience it - through the tastes, smells and colors that fill the narrow alleys and crowded squares.
Sunday: Soft landing on the "Spice Road"
I arrived in Athens in the afternoon, when the city is starting to wake up to night life. The trip to the ANISE hotel, one of the chain's three hotels in Athens, was like traveling through time - from the wide and modern boulevards to the narrow alleys of the old city. The hotel is located along the famous "Spice Road", at the border of the cool and touristy Pasiri neighborhood, so you can find cafes, bars and, of course, shopping within walking distance. The neighborhood is located between three famous squares: Monastiraki, Syntagma and Omnia.
ANISE, which opened in August and has a 4-star rating, is indeed a new hotel, but it is no longer a hotel. It is a meeting point between the past and the future of Athens. The modern design blends harmoniously with the traditional elements and creates an atmosphere of homely elegance. The room was quite spacious (especially by European standards) and harmoniously combined rough concrete walls and warm, modern furniture, with the dominant colors being brown and green.
The huge bed with the soft bedding, the espresso machine and the balcony with the view of the old city - all these ensured that the stay would be as enjoyable as the trips themselves. At the moment it seems that even though it is an Israeli-owned chain, only 20% of its guests are Israelis and the rest are mostly Europeans. Something that ensures a balance for anyone looking to escape the Israeli madness but still feel at home. How many at home? Israeli guests can feel comfortable asking for special things from the kitchen.
The hotel building looks from the outside like another typical Greek building, with a front shop and a long corridor that leads to a courtyard with a bar and restaurant. Above them are 63 rooms in several sizes - from single to family rooms. The prices here start at €191 per couple per night. In the future, the hotel will include more than a hundred rooms, since the chain also purchased the building adjacent to the hotel. In my eyes, the highlight of ANISE is the rooftop and its transparent pool. Near the pool there are lounge areas and a cute cocktail bar.
First night: Checking the area and stopping at a tavern
Despite the fatigue from the flight, my curiosity grew and I decided to go on a short evening tour of the area. The Psiri neighborhood, known as the "Soho of Athens", comes alive at night. The streets are filled with music, smells of traditional Greek food and the sounds of lively conversations. After five minutes of walking I could already see the buzz around Monastiraki Square, which actually connects Psiri and the old Plaka neighborhood.
Although the square is busy at all hours of the day, it has a special charm - above it you can see the Acropolis. Besides the view of the Acropolis in the square is the Pantanassa Church, a church from the 11th century that is rich in wall paintings and mosaics; Cistraki Mosque (Mosque of the Small Steps) built in the 18th century, Hadrian's Library built in the second century by the Roman Emperor Hadrian; and the Agora, which was the heart of ancient Athens.
After a round of impressions, I decided to stop at the first tavern I saw, for a first taste of Greek cuisine. Mosca with layers of roasted eggplant, juicy ground meat and creamy beschmel, Greek salad (because you can't do without), dolmades (vine leaves) and other surprises flowed to the table. While I was eating, I noticed the walls covered in magnificent murals. This was a first glimpse of the rich graffiti culture of Athens, a topic I will explore in depth later in the visit.
With another drop of energy I continued towards "Little Cook" - a cafe designed like a scene from the world of Disney's fairy tales. The cafe, which attracts tourists until the wee hours of the night, is in the heart of the Pasiri neighborhood and is known for its elaborate and decadent desserts.
Monday: Time travel
The morning started early, with sunrise over the rooftops of ancient Athens. The breakfast at the ANISE hotel was a culinary feast in itself. Surprisingly I gave up the classic yogurt, I found myself enjoying a selection of traditional Greek pastries - from borax with feta cheese to pretzels - each of which was a culinary adventure in itself. Local honey, homemade jams and a selection of fresh fruits and vegetables were served alongside the pastries. The person behind the menu here is Amir Kalfon, the head chef of the Isrotel network.
With renewed energy, it's a good time to head towards the site - the Acropolis. High above the busy streets of modern Athens, stands the Acropolis - a silent witness to the greatness of ancient Greece. When you climb up the hill, you can really feel how in the past philosophers, artists and statesmen who shaped Western culture walked here. The Parthenon, which stands at the heart of the complex, is a symbol of the pinnacle of human achievement. It is impossible not to be impressed by its decorated columns, and next to it the Archatheon with its famous caryatid statues, reminding us of the mythological wealth of Greek culture.
But the Acropolis is more than a collection of ancient buildings, it is a multi-sensory experience: The wind blowing between the columns; the touch of the hot stone from the sun; and the spectacular view of Athens unfolding at your feet - all these create a magical moment of connection with the past. If you are traveling in the city for several days and you are an archeology enthusiast, you should know that you can purchase a combined ticket for all the ancient sites, which is valid for three days. The ticket costs about €30 for an adult.
The secrets of Athens
Apart from history, Athens is also known as a destination for urban excursions. The best way to understand the wealth that the Greek capital city has to offer is to join guided tours. And there are many of them. Quite a few of them are led by Israelis who fell in love with the city and immigrated to it. One of the most interesting tours I discovered is given by the "Secrets of Athens" company, and it focuses on food, street art and contemporary culture.
We were accompanied by Inga, an Israeli who lived in Athens for six years. Inga walks through the crowded streets of the city with the confidence of a local, she is full of joie de vivre, and spending time with her is an experience in itself. Unlike the usual tours that focus on the famous sites, Inga takes us on a journey through time through the hidden layers of the city. She leads us between old and new cafes, recommended restaurants and narrow streets with graffiti and street art and lively markets that only the locals know.
Inga's rich knowledge and her love for the city are evident in every corner. She spices up the tour with personal stories and surprising historical anecdotes. The tour itself lasts between three and four hours, during which you taste delicacies from the Ionian cuisine, such as the honey-rich pastry of the gods, spanakopita (phyllo pastry, spinach and feta cheese), locomads (doughnuts) and of course the local alcohol. Such a tour costs about €75.
Just before I ended the long day, during which we were also blessed with the first rains of autumn, I went up to the roof of the "SKYLARK" hotel, which is located in Omonia square, which besides a wonderful pool also has a cool bar and a panoramic view of all of Athens. This is a great place to slow down, sit back with a fancy cocktail and enjoy the peace.
After a refreshing jump back to the room at ANISE, I ended the night at "Kalimetria", an old tavern in the city that is a few steps away from the hotel. It's a perfect place to enjoy good food, Greek music and mezzo that flows like water. If you are more than a couple, you should know that you can take a "fix menu" here for €35 per head, which includes the flagship dishes of the place and a drink.
