Winter arrived early this year, and that’s reason enough for season enthusiasts like me to celebrate. More precisely, to snuggle under a duvet, cling to a radiator, and stay indoors, because it’s expensive, scary, and unpleasant outside anyway.
Winter and white wine lovers, take note: clouds, rain, and low temperatures are no excuse to give up on the white drink. Throw on a sweater, wrap yourself in a good scarf, and open a bottle of winter white wine.
The global and domestic production of white wines grows every year, offering a vast selection from different grape varieties and styles. While white wine is naturally associated with summer due to its high acidity and lower alcohol levels compared to reds, the stylistic diversity allows us to enjoy white wines that are delightful and comforting even on cold days. What Is a Winter White Wine?
Something Fortified
Alcohol is often perceived as warming due to the burning sensation it provides as it goes down. Unsurprisingly, people in colder countries traditionally drink high-alcohol beverages.
Fortified white wines, containing 16–21% alcohol, will warm the body and cheer the soul. Fortified sherry wines, whether dry or sweet, from the Jerez region in southern Spain, evoke flavors of almonds, dried fruits, and Christmas cake. These are reminiscent of cold winters at Grandma’s (the British one) with wooden floors and a roaring fireplace.
While fortified sherries are less popular these days, vermouth—the fortified and spiced wine whose flavors are rooted in wormwood—has made a major comeback. It’s an excellent cocktail base or enjoyable on its own, with or without ice.
Vermouth Bianco di Torino - D.co Ulrich - Marolo is a wonderful example of a sweet white vermouth from the Piedmont region in Italy, the birthplace of vermouth.
Made from 100% local Cortese grapes, it achieves a perfect balance of sweetness, bitterness, and high alcohol (16%) that is almost undetectable. Its smooth texture delivers strong wormwood flavors alongside a festival of other spices. Serve it neat, with or without ice, or spritzed with soda, fresh lemon, and basil leaves for a warming and uplifting drink.
Full and Rich
Chardonnay wines from the Burgundy region of France are perhaps the classic first choice in the "full and rich whites" category. Winemaking techniques such as malolactic fermentation, yeast aging, and oak barrel maturation give these wines softness, richness, and aromas of butter, toasted bread, and brioche, alongside ripe apples and a thick texture.
Unfortunately, most of Burgundy's best wines are becoming nearly inaccessible due to exorbitant prices. A good and interesting alternative—not a replacement—can be found in another French region west of the Loire Valley, near the Atlantic Ocean, called Nantes.
White wines from the Melon de Bourgogne grape, labeled as Muscadet, may lack the complexity of Burgundy's wines but offer a delightful, high-quality drinking experience at a reasonable price. Most Muscadet wines undergo yeast aging (sur lie) and are aged in large oak barrels, making them worthy members of the category.
One example is Muscadet Cru Château Thébaud 2019. Its golden straw color carries aromas of peach, ripe pear, candied orange peel, limestone, and brioche. The wine is dry with an oily texture, full body, a hint of saltiness adding complexity, a long finish, and only 12% alcohol.
Vintage Charm
Riesling is a versatile grape variety that ages and develops beautifully in the bottle. Young Riesling wines tend to be very floral, often with residual sugar balancing their high acidity.
Winemaking processes like yeast aging and barrel maturation can overshadow the grape's natural aromatic burst. However, as the wine matures in the bottle, extraordinary aromas and flavors of petrol and honey emerge.
The Koehler-Ruprecht Kallstadter Riesling 2016 - Kabinett Trocken from the Pfalz region in Germany is no longer young. At eight years old, it displays a deep golden color and aromas of blood orange, honey, honeysuckle blossom, petrol, and flint.
Its high acidity balances a hint of residual sugar, giving it a dry taste. On the palate, it reveals complexity, full body, and rich layers of flavors and textures, including hazelnuts. All these elements come together in an evolving and incredibly delicious wine.
Add Some Sweetness
“As Avri Lider wrote, ‘Sweet things are also a kind of comfort.’ Indeed, anyone can attest that sugar in all its forms can warm the body and soul. Add alcohol, and you’ve got the perfect recipe for pure, warm joy.”
You can find all this in sweet dessert wines from familiar places like Sauternes in Bordeaux, France, or Tokaji in Hungary. However, Israel’s winter is not a true winter—it’s more like early spring in Tokaji or Sauternes. To warm up during our mild winter, we’ll drink semi-sweet or semi-dry wines.
Recanati French Blend is a local superstar. First introduced in the 2016 harvest, it was created to meet the need for semi-dry wines that align with the popularity of Muscat and Gewürztraminer wines in restaurants and wine bars at the time.
A Mediterranean Winter
Kobi Arviv, the chief winemaker at Recanati Winery, faced the challenge of producing semi-dry wines while maintaining the winery's consistent Mediterranean approach, which focuses on grape varieties suited to warm climates.
Thus, the French Blend was born, primarily composed of Colombard grapes (95%), with a touch of Sauvignon Blanc (3%) and a hint of Muscat (2%). Each blend component has a role: Colombard provides the backbone with freshness and high acidity, Sauvignon Blanc adds tropical fruit and floral aromas, and the subtle Muscat contributes sweetness and grape nectar flavors.
The 2024 harvest posed challenges in the vineyard, winery, and shelters—a year of war that felt like an inseparable part of Israel’s terroir.
Difficulties in reaching the vineyards under fire and a shortage of labor accompanied the emotional toll affecting everyone. Additionally, Recanati's grand and impressive visitor center in the new winery building stood empty for over a year.
Yet despite everything, the French Blend 2024 has been released this winter, offering enjoyment and maintaining a clear, consistent line. It’s a wine with good acidity that balances natural sweetness, jasmine flowers, and citrus fruits—perfect for drinking in an Israeli winter, with the hope for peace and the safe return of everyone to their homes.
Price: NIS 80