On a recent Monday morning, the Chabad synagogue in Odesa buzzed with activity. Around 50 individuals gathered for prayer, a testament to the community’s enduring spirit.
“Despite the war, it is remarkable that any worshipers continue to come together to pray,” remarked Chief Rabbi of Odesa Avraham Wolff from the back of the crowded room.
Rabbi Wolff, who has chosen to remain in the besieged port city since the beginning of the full-scale invasion, said: “Before the war, the synagogue was packed; today, the turnout is much smaller. Yet, it’s nothing short of a miracle that anyone is still present, especially when you consider the state of other synagogues in Ukraine, where some struggle to gather even two people.”
This enduring presence of Odesa’s Jewish community, despite the harsh realities, reflects a deeply rooted history. After nearly three years of conflict, the community is deeply scarred by the war, but it remains vibrant.
Isabelle Nemirovski, founder of the Friends of Odesa association and a scholar in Jewish and Hebrew studies at INALCO in Paris, explained that “the history of Judaism in Odesa is rich. It dates back to the founding of the city in the 18th century.”
Overlooking the Black Sea, Odesa was founded in 1794 by Catherine the Great, quickly becoming a vital port due to its strategic location. The city was intended to be a gateway between Europe and the East, fostering trade and cultural exchange. Over time, Odesa grew into a bustling cosmopolitan center, attracting a diverse population and playing a significant role in the economic and political landscape of the Russian Empire.
Odesa quickly became a significant center of Jewish culture. At one time, it boasted one of the largest Jewish communities in the Russian Empire, attracting intellectuals and writers. When, in 1916, Isaac Babel referred to a “city built by Jews,” he was not only highlighting the Jewish population but also the city’s overall atmosphere of tolerance toward minorities.
“Before the Holocaust, one-third of Odesa’s population was Jewish – about 200,000 people,” Nemirovski noted. Odesa also played a crucial role in the Zionist movement, with notable figures like Leon Pinsker and Vladimir Jabotinsky having lived there.
In reaction to the devastating pogroms in Odesa in 1871 and 1881, Pinsker established a Zionist organization and anonymously published Auto-Emancipation. In this influential pamphlet, he argued for the creation of a Jewish state and forcefully condemned antisemitism. Although it was largely overlooked by Jewish communities in the West, the pamphlet found a significant and enthusiastic audience in Eastern Europe, particularly in Odesa, where it was translated into Hebrew and Yiddish.
Despite the tragedies that have befallen Odesa’s Jewish community, ranging from pogroms to the Holocaust, a sense of attachment has endured. Rabbi Wolff reflected on this enduring bond with a deep sense of pride.
“Odesa offers something that maybe Israel cannot provide – an enduring sense of belonging and a deep-rooted attachment to the city, even amidst the ravages of war,” he remarked.
An impacted community
The Russian invasion of Ukraine, which began in February 2022, has left a profound impact on Odesa’s Jewish community, compelling many to immigrate to Israel or other countries.
“Nearly 40% of the faithful left the city at the beginning of the war,” Rabbi Wolff noted with a blend of gravity and sadness.
This significant migration raises a poignant question for him: “Why does the Jewish community of Odesa choose to remain anchored in such difficult times?”
For him, the answer lies within the very nature of the conflict.
“Perhaps it is the war itself that drives people to draw closer to God, a phenomenon that mirrors the resilient spirit of Ukrainians,” he suggested, his voice imbued with a deep-seated pride. “In the face of adversity, Ukrainians seek refuge wherever they can find it. Similarly, during these uncertain times, members of the Jewish community are turning to their faith for solace and a renewed sense of purpose.”
He added that “the community today numbers around 25,000 people,” which illustrates the remarkable resilience of a community that has weathered many storms throughout its history.
The story of Odesa’s Jewish community is not merely one of survival but of ongoing adaptation. Despite the conflict, the city continues to be a refuge for displaced individuals from across Ukraine.
“Jewish refugees from all over Ukraine have found their way to Odesa,” Wolff continued, emphasizing the community’s capacity to not only persist but to extend a welcoming hand to those in need. This spirit of solidarity and support amid adversity underscores a profound resilience, allowing Odesa to remain a beacon of hope and resilience in this increasingly tense situation.
One of the most striking examples of the resilience of Odesa’s Jewish community is the remarkable evacuation of orphans, women, and children at the onset of the war. As the city faced the imminent threat of an invasion from the east, the community acted with extraordinary speed and determination.
In the early days of the conflict, it organized the evacuation of orphans, guiding them through a grueling journey across several countries to ensure their safety. A week after the full-scale invasion of Ukraine began, the orphans, women, and children embarked on a three-day journey that took them through Moldova, Romania, Hungary, Slovakia, and finally to Berlin. This was not only an escape but an act of preserving the community, a testament to its members’ unwavering commitment to their children and their faith.
According to Rabbi Wolff, who reflects on this moment while seated at a table cluttered with documents in Hebrew and Cyrillic files: “In total, about 400 women and children were brought to Berlin, where they remained for a year. We succeeded in establishing a community there, opening a kindergarten, a school, a university, and a synagogue in a large facility in western Berlin.”
The rabbi was fortunate to have a friend, a fellow rabbi in Berlin, who helped navigate the border crossings with the German border police.
However, “The logistical and financial challenges were huge. It was costing around €1 million per month. It was a year of living in hotels, where we had to provide food, shelter, and create an educational and spiritual environment for the children,” he said.
Despite these difficulties, many who had fled eventually returned to Odesa, including the children from the orphanage. This return symbolizes not only the strength of the community but also its profound attachment to its land, even amid ongoing uncertainty.
In this resilient spirit, Wolff stands out as a figure of calm and wisdom. His demeanor, a blend of warmth and solemnity, leaves a lasting impression on those who meet him. With a reassuring smile and a steady presence, Wolff embodies the resilience of Odesa’s Jewish community, which, despite the trials and tribulations, continues to stand tall with remarkable dignity.
A resurgence of faith
In a quiet room at the Chabad synagogue’s youth center, a mother anxiously clutches her hands, her eyes fixed on the wall, as her seven-year-old son undergoes a brit milah in the next room. This intimate moment, steeped in tradition, holds even deeper meaning in the shadow of ongoing war.
“Some, driven by the war, feel a stronger need to reconnect with Judaism, prompting more brit milah ceremonies,” said Mohel Aaron Kramen. “We’ve seen this trend since the conflict began,” he added.
The mother’s return to religious roots reflects a larger revival within Odesa’s Jewish community. Far from disappearing, Judaism here is experiencing a resurgence, underscoring the enduring resilience of this historic community.
This resurgence is not merely a revival of religious practice but a testament to the community’s historical resilience and adaptability.
“The synagogue has seen an influx of new attendees since the war began. Many of whom are refugees from other regions of Ukraine, such as Mariupol and Kharkiv,” explained Wolff.
The rabbi noted with a mix of sorrow and hope that this influx has brought both challenges and a renewed vibrancy to the community. Despite the war’s relentless grip, the number of worshipers returning to the synagogue has grown significantly. This shift underscores a profound transformation where, amid adversity, faith has reclaimed its central place in the lives of many.
The synagogue, once merely a place of ritual, has evolved into a refuge from the chaos outside. It stands as a beacon of hope and solace, providing not only spiritual comfort but also a vital connection to a community’s rich history and enduring spirit. In this setting, the synagogue is more than just a place of worship; it has become a haven where the beleaguered find strength and unity, demonstrating how, even in the darkest times, the light of faith can shine brightly.
Raissa, a dedicated member of the community, reflected on a remarkable resurgence in religious devotion. Her eyes glistened with emotion as she recounted, “Many new people have joined our community – individuals who had no prior connection to it. For a long time, many Jews in Odesa felt little need to embrace religious practices. They were well settled with families and jobs. Being Jewish here was commonplace, and it wasn’t a problem. Yet, their connection to the synagogue was minimal; they didn’t feel compelled to participate actively.”
This growing wave of religious engagement stands in stark contrast to past trends, as Igor, a community member and assistant to Rabbi Wolff, explained. “Many Jews had drifted away from religion due to ignorance and a loss of traditions.” This phenomenon is deeply rooted in the historical context of Soviet repression, which systematically targeted religious practices.
Under Soviet rule, Judaism faced severe oppression. Communist authorities sought to eradicate religious practices in favor of state-sponsored atheism.
“Synagogues were frequently shut down or repurposed as secular cultural venues, religious books were censored, and traditional rites were strongly discouraged,” Igor detailed. Jews were subjected to intense pressure to conform to Soviet ideologies, which led to a gradual distancing from religious practices and a distortion of ancestral traditions.
In contemporary Odesa, the echoes of the Soviet past are intertwined with the current conflict, leading to a revival of faith among many Jews. The resurgence of religious observance in this environment, where tradition had been suppressed for decades, reflects a profound yearning to reconnect with their spiritual and cultural roots.
“Today, our Torah study classes are bursting at the seams,” said Raissa, illustrating the vibrant renewal of religious life in the community.
This resurgence not only signifies a return to spiritual practices but also highlights a broader quest for identity and continuity amid ongoing challenges. The revival of Jewish life in Odesa, against the backdrop of historical repression and current adversity, demonstrates a resilient reawakening of faith and cultural heritage.
A community’s resilient outlook
Raissa gazes into the future of Odesa’s Jewish community with a blend of determination and hope. “Odesa has always been, and it will always be,” she asserted with unwavering conviction.
“At the onset of the war, we closed everything down, fearing it was the end, that everyone would flee to Israel or elsewhere. But people are not leaving. Odesa is a great city; it has always been, and it will remain so.”
Her words reflect a steadfast refusal to yield to fear or despair, underscoring the community’s resilient spirit.
However, this resilience is tempered by a keen awareness of the challenges ahead, particularly regarding national identity and potential postwar tensions. Raissa voiced her concerns openly: “We are very nationalistic, which is normal, but being Jewish adds another layer. There’s a fear that after the war, all blame may fall on Zelensky, who is Jewish. It will require a great deal of divine mercy to prevent antisemitism from surfacing after the conflict.”
In this atmosphere of fear and hope, Odesa stands as a bastion of Jewish life. Despite the ravages of war, the city remains a place where faith, history, and community are intricately woven together, the people quietly fighting to preserve a future that many feared had been lost.
Odesa’s enduring spirit exemplifies a remarkable blend of tradition and perseverance, as the Jewish community navigates the uncertainties of today while holding steadfast to its heritage.