In the summer of 2023, our podcast highlighted Haifa Port, as it was gearing up for its busiest-ever year. More cruises adding Israel as a destination, more ships using Haifa as a home port and plans in place for a long overdue modern purpose-built cruise-passenger terminal. More and more major cruise lines were planning to follow MSC and Royal Caribbean and home port in Israel.
Skip forward 12 months and a different reality bites. The brutal terrorist massacre of October 7 and the subsequent attacks by Hamas, Hezbollah and other Iranian-sponsored terrorists, who rained thousands of rockets and drones on Israel, changed that landscape with only a single cruise company departing from the port.
Setting sail
After a near eight-month hiatus, on May 30, Mano Cruise returned to action with a three-night sailing, overnighting in Limassol, Cyprus. Its 2024 season runs through December, and includes France, Italy, and Croatia in addition to regular destinations to mainland Greece, the Greek Islands, and Cyprus. Sadly, the geopolitical situation means that Mano canceled cruises to Turkey and sailing through the Black Sea to Bulgaria.
Just before Shavuot, together with Mrs. Gordon, I booked a two-day jaunt to Larnaca in Cyprus aboard the Crown Iris, Mano’s sole cruise ship. First sailing for Mano in 2019, it is the largest of 4 ships to have been called Iris. It is more than twice the size of its predecessor, the Golden Iris, and has 750 rooms.
The ship was previously called Majesty and was part of Celestyal Cruise Lines, Thomson Cruises, and Norwegian Cruise Line. She was launched in New York City in July 21, 1992, by Liza Minnelli. Her portrait still sits proudly in the ship’s reception on Floor 5. There are 11 floors in total on the Crown Iris, five restaurants, a spa, a synagogue, and shops galore. There are two pools, where DJ Mike Vegas can be found at night, bringing the party atmosphere to Deck 10, two casinos, a waterslide and even a basketball court.
One of the big advantages Crown Iris as compared to its predecessors is the space allocated to the entertainment program. The impressive Jubilee Lounge hosts international shows twice a night. On the two nights of the voyage to Larnaca, the in-house entertainers, hailing all the way from Cuba, put on a compendium of the best Latin-American music in a show called Colores, and a tribute show to Mediterranean music. In the Fireworks Lounge, you will find a very talented band from the Philippines called Sea of Ice and the sultry tones of the very talented chanteuse, Lital, belting out Israeli classics with an added helping of Amy Winehouse. Dotted around the ship are further small performance spaces in the bars, where you can hear Spiros on the Piano and Costa on the Bouzouki – a nod to Mano’s Greek roots.
Greek-born Moshe Mano, the founder of the eponymous company has shipping in his blood. His grandfather Samuel owned a fleet of barges back in Thessaloniki. In 1932, the family made aliyah as part of a program to bring workers to the port of Haifa. Moshe’s father Mordechai started as a clerk in the port until he established his own shipping company. And Moshe’s son Moran is now the CEO of Mano Maritime, continuing the family tradition.
Dinner at the Captain’s Table is a treat, and a chance to talk to Staff Captain Michail Syntychakis, a native of Crete, and Cypriot hotel manager Andreas Tolmas about life on the seas. Michail and Andreas have the difficult task of eating a wonderful four-course meal, without leaving a mark on their crisp white uniforms. They both wisely pass on the soup. Andreas explains that the eight-month break led to significant change in the international crew of more than 600 staff. The team currently hails from countries including the Philippines, Thailand, Ukraine, Moldova, India, Egypt, Romania, and Ireland.
Michail meets us the following day on a visit to the bridge from where you can watch people below pretend to be Kate Winslet. Asked about superstitions on ships, he says that ships used to have a cat, but that was mainly for rodent control. Apparently, aquariums are now the bad luck charm.
Passengers reflect the diverse Israeli population
But it’s not just the staff that are a mini United Nations. Despite Haifa being the only place that you can board the ship, the passengers reflect the international melting pot that is Israel. Muslim, Christian and Jewish, Ashkenazi and Sephardi, young and old. You will hear French, English, Hebrew, Russian, and Arabic wherever you turn, and the crew, who all speak English, do their best to deal with every challenge.
This is particularly evident at meal times. Mano offers three fully-kosher buffet meals a day with options for vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free diets. The restaurant staff work wonders accommodating the passengers and on the final day treat them to a carefully-rehearsed dance (around the time that tip envelopes are handed out).
And so, to Larnaca, Cyprus’s third-largest city. The current port building, like Haifa is due to be replaced with a brand-new terminal in the next few years. A mere 20 minutes’ walk from the port is Finikoudes sea front, a medieval fort and the ornate Church of Saint Lazarus. Or for a treat, Mano provides a number of exciting excursions in Larnaca: A jeep tour, a chance to visit local villages including halloumi tasting, or the Israeli favorite, shopping.
And if you want to treat somebody back on the ship, Mano provides birthday packages, romantic meals in the Le Bistro chef’s restaurant or even a relaxing massage or beauty treatment.
In these difficult times, the choice in general for Israeli travelers is much more limited than a year ago. They are few simpler and more enjoyable breaks than taking the train to Haifa, walking five minutes into the port and having a few days at sea where Mano looks after your every need.
The writer cohosts The Jerusalem Post Podcast – Travel Edition with David Harris (https://www.jpost.com/podcast/travel-edition).