Walking through the arched entryway to the cozy lobby of the American Colony Hotel in Jerusalem is like stepping into another time. That was precisely the feeling I had when I came to review this hotel.
Old Jerusalem stone was as far as the eye can see – and not the Jerusalem stone in modern-day local buildings, all freshly chiseled and smooth, but aged, textured, and filled with personality. Those stones are a perfect microcosm of the hotel itself.
Horatio Spafford and his wife, Anna, had four little girls in 1871 when fires consumed Chicago, damaging even the little suburb of Lake View, where the family lived. In 1873, Anna took the girls on vacation, but the four were tragically killed in a ship collision, leaving Anna alone.
The family was left bereft and abandoned, their church turning against them and seeing them as punished by God. They moved to Jerusalem to live like the “first Christians,” where they re-established their religious community in a rented Old City home near the Damascus Gate.
“He was always very keen on getting to the Holy Land, to Israel, to await Jesus coming,” Jeremy Berkovitz, the representative of the owners of the hotel, told The Jerusalem Post.
While the hotel also has an interesting sexual history, that’s not what I want to focus on here; rather, the hotel’s inherent sense of creating community is what stands out, both in the hotel and its history.
A Swedish Christian commune became interested in the lifestyle of the Americans living in Jerusalem, and several members joined them.
“So, in an Anatevka sort of way, they all sold up their village and walked or sailed over,” Berkovitz said humorously in a musical theater reference that did nothing negative to my feelings toward the hotel.
With the enlarged community came the need for larger premises, and one cleared up just in time.
Rabbah Daoud Amin Effendi al-Husseini had built a home for himself and his wives but died soon after, and so the home was taken up by the Christian commune. That home is now the American Colony Hotel.
The Americans and Swedes kept the original decor around, which was chosen by the Husseini family in the time of the Ottoman Empire. Many of those decorations and styles are preserved today; the effect is massive.
“All the present owners do is try and stick to the same lines architecturally and historically,” Berkovitz said. “We try to do nothing new,” he added, chuckling.
Indeed, the red Persian-style carpets and the low arched ceilings give the feeling of being in the room with that commune who came, not as missionaries, but to do good and to live in hope.
The American Colony first started taking in guests in 1902 when Baron Plato von Ustinov – owner of the Park Hotel in Jaffa and grandfather of actor Peter Ustinov – needed somewhere in Jerusalem to house his visitors from Europe and America.
Eventually, in 1930, the assets of the Colony were split. The hotel is still owned by the descendants of those original members.
“The hotel still likes to think of itself as a neutral place,” Berkovitz said. “It’s not really part of any of the politics or religion, but just an integral part of Jerusalem. This is the real, authentic Jerusalem; our job is to maintain the heritage.”
While the hotel’s history is very pretty, is the hotel just as such? The answer, simply, is yes; it’s outright gorgeous.
The receptionist was extremely kind and helpful in the small but not uncomfortably so lobby. Check-in was a breeze, and he immediately summarized the hotel map and then sent us on our way with the concierge.
Our hotel room was high-ceilinged and full of light and air, covered in paintings and photographs of Jerusalem of yesteryear. While the place has a vintage feel, it does not feel dusty. Not a speck of dirt can be found on location.
The place is covered in plants and is constantly perfumed by them, making it look like an enchanted castle. The outdoor bar, for example, is tucked away in a gazebo surrounded by trees and hedges. At night, it is lit by lanterns all around, creating a romantic atmosphere.
The pool was quite full during the day, though we were guests on a Saturday when most things in Jerusalem were closed, so I’d expect it to be less packed throughout the week. It is a beautiful pool with a small waterfall structure at the shallow end, bathed in sunlight. I prefer indoor pools when it comes to hotels so that they are open in the winter as well, but this one’s old-Jerusalem feel makes up for any potential flaws. It was also exceptionally clean, and the lifeguard was constantly vigilant while on duty – an important bonus for those of us who are parents.
That is not to say that the hotel is the best place to go with a family; in fact, I would say it is far from it. This is the ultimate spot for a couple or a small adults-only group.
“The pool isn’t designed for loads of children,” Berkovitz admitted. “We could probably populate the hotel with families and small children, but that’s not what the hotel’s about. It will spoil the hotel for other guests.”
He was responding to a question about potential booking issues in the hotel in light of the war currently raging through the country and the region as a whole. To that, he said that while they had considered closing shop due to the war, they decided wholeheartedly against it.
“Some employees, like me, have been with the hotel for 40 years; if you lose people like that, you lose the hotel,” he said. “It’s not just buildings, it’s people.”
The hotel does not hide that it has a particular target audience; its very structure reveals that. The hotel is accessible, but not easily so.
To enter with any wheeled vehicle – in our case, a stroller – requires quite a bit of extra walking. We went with lifting the stroller over the stairs, but those with wheelchairs will not have that privilege. The main building does have an elevator, though.
The entryway to the reception hall is through a paved streetpath with no sidewalks alongside it.
Another example of this was the pace. While having food at the non-kosher hotel restaurant was divine, it was a slow-paced environment, ideal for a couple or small group taking it easy with a bottle of wine or a couple of cocktails.
Unfortunately, we did not plan accordingly and waited long for our entrées. However, once they came out, they were divine.
The chilled smoked tomato and basil soup was delicious, rich, and thick, if a little oversalted. The salmon ceviche was soft, fresh, and refreshing.
Once the main course arrived, it was made precisely according to specifications. The grilled lamb kebab was melt-in-your-mouth delicious, served in a tagine, and bathed in the thick and rich sauce. The grilled beef mignon was a little tough in texture but earthy and smokey in flavor, with a delightfully peppery sauce on the side.
The dessert of knafeh was phenomenal. The crust was fresh and crispy, the cheese thick and gooey, and it was swimming in sweet syrup. The ice cream on the side balanced it out perfectly.
Breakfast was no less pleasing; in fact, it was the highlight of our stay. By any standard, it appeared at first to be a regular old hotel buffet. However, the experience was far beyond anything like that. With a small but wide-ranging spread, everything was fresh, clean, and delicious.
The hotel is not kosher
A note to the kosher-keeper: this is not the place for you. If you don’t keep kosher, welcome to the most excellent breakfast you can find in Jerusalem.
We went with fresh omelets, croissants, a fluffy and fresh apple pastry, perfectly crisp bacon, an Arab salad (that I grew up with simply being called a chopped salad – who knew?) that was light and pleasant, and an assortment of cheeses and cold cuts that were deliciously fresh.
All in all, the American Colony Hotel was beyond delightful. If you are an able-bodied adult looking for a good getaway representing the very heart of Jerusalem, this institution should be on your shortlist.
The writer was a guest of the hotel.
