As my daughter Netanya and I queued up at passport control in Istanbul’s airport, we were enveloped in a vibrant tapestry of cultures and a symphony of languages. The airport was packed with travelers from every part of the globe.
While travelers holding Turkish passports were few and breezed through the Turkish passport line, the line for other nationalities was a massive, undulating sea of people. It took over 30 minutes to reach the designated queue area, and more than an hour to pass through the checkpoint.
As we waited, we noticed how diverse the travelers were: A group of visitors from Iran stood in line with us, alongside travelers from Egypt, Russia, and numerous other countries. People chatted about everything – from the day’s rainy weather to their upcoming tourist itineraries.
Amid the chatter, a sobering news report popped up on my telephone screen, detailing a bombing attack outside Turkey’s Interior Ministry building in Ankara. While I was curious and started trying to figure out what happened and why, the announcement of the attack appeared to cast only a fleeting shadow over the crowd’s enthusiasm – if indeed they even knew about it.
So, I was surprised on the following day as my daughter and I went on a guided tour of Turkey’s iconic landmarks, to encounter a shocking perspective on Israel from our tour guide.
While talking about the archaeological history of Istanbul, I shared a little about the layered history of Jerusalem. She responded that she had always wanted to see The Holy City but was “afraid of terrorism.” When I asked her to explain what she meant, she said quietly and with a bit of a nervous laugh: “I’m afraid of Israeli soldiers. I’ve heard stories of them shooting people in the streets.”
I shared my perspective as an American immigrant living in Jerusalem. Still, it weighed on my mind how Israel always seems to struggle to convey our country’s true essence. What struck me even more was the realization that despite the resurgence of tourism post-COVID-19, visitors to our country are predominantly Jewish and Christian. Remarkably, even after the historic signing of the Abraham Accords in 2020, data shows that we have failed to tap into the vast Muslim tourist market.
This paradox is particularly puzzling considering that Jerusalem stands as the third-holiest place in Islam and is home to the Temple Mount, graced by the Dome of the Rock and Al-Aqsa Mosque, along with a profound Muslim history embedded in the land, evident through its archaeology and architecture.
So, what is the missing link?
A recent news report on Israel’s Channel 13 shed light on several factors contributing to this problem. It vividly depicted the lopsided travel patterns between Israel and the United Arab Emirates, two nations now bound by diplomatic ties. Despite three major airlines – Etihad, Fly Dubai, and Emirates – operating direct flights between Israel and the UAE, the number of Emirati travelers to Israel remains conspicuously low.
The statistics unveiled by the report were telling. Since the signing of the peace accords, 2,355,000 individuals have traveled from Israel to the UAE, with 1,177,800 of them having purchased round-trip tickets. However, the glaring discrepancy lay in the ratio of Israeli to Emirati travelers. In January 2022, for instance, while 4,315 Israelis journeyed to the UAE, only 102 Emiratis visited Israel. Two months later, in March 2022, the numbers swelled to 17,162 Israelis heading to the UAE vs 259 Emiratis coming to Israel. By October 2022, some 21,760 Israelis ventured to the UAE, compared to 57 Emiratis exploring Israel.
In 2022, a meager 2,034 Emiratis visited the Jewish state, while almost 200,000 Israelis traversed the opposite route. The trend persisted into 2023, as indicated by Channel 13’s data: 47,000 Israelis journeyed to the UAE in January, but only 93 Emiratis chose Israel. In April, the numbers were 27,000 versus 34; and in August, 21,000 compared to 80.
Shockingly, in the last month, just 58 Emirati tourists graced the streets of Israel.
Shedding light on travel patterns from other countries, the Central Bureau of Statistics presented additional insights. On a positive note, July 2023 saw 300 Moroccan citizens visiting Israel, marking a remarkable 50% increase from the previous year. Some 2,300 Moroccan citizens explored Israel from January to July, reflecting a significant 64.29% surge from 2022.
The statistics, however, also revealed a decline in visitors from other countries. Only 100 Egyptian citizens journeyed to Israel in July, a 50% decrease from July 2022. Meanwhile, from Jordan 3,700 citizens embarked on visits to Israel in July 2023, constituting a 5.13% drop compared to the same month in 2022.
The report attributed several reasons to this situation, ranging from the challenges faced by Arabs in obtaining security clearances to the issue of neglected, garbage-filled streets in Jerusalem, and even incidents where Israelis mistreated some visitors.
Earlier this week, a video circulated on social media that showed ultra-Orthodox Jews spitting on Christian pilgrims carrying the Sukkot Four Species through the Old City. This video sparked public outcry, including a response from the prime minister, who called for religious tolerance.
However, regardless of their isolated nature, such incidents and one-sided reports on Israel in foreign and Middle Eastern press can discourage potential travelers.
While Jerusalem Mayor Moshe Lion has prioritized cleaning up the city’s streets – and as a Jerusalemite, I can attest to significant improvements – the reality remains that residents of Jerusalem often fall short in caring for their city. A study published in 2021 by the Natural Resources and Environmental Research Center at the University of Haifa revealed that 45% of Israelis admitted to littering at least once a year, with some even confessing to doing so “just for fun.”
Beyond these factors, the sheer cost of traveling to Israel presents a formidable impediment. I purchased tickets for Turkey 10 months ago priced at less than $150, even with additional carry-on luggage and seat selection fees. We enjoyed a two-night stay at a luxurious 5-star hotel for less than $500, with an abundance of reasonably priced vegetarian and vegan dining options. In stark contrast, according to the World Economic Forum, Israel is the world’s most expensive tourist country.
A report by Ynet delved into this issue, highlighting the stark price differences between Israel and nearby destinations.
For example, a British couple seeking a two-night stay in August at the Royal Beach Hotel in Eilat would have to spend around $1,500, compared to just $153 for a whole week at the Verginia Sharm Resort & Aqua Park in Sharm el-Sheikh – a staggering 1,000% difference. Choosing Crete, according to Ynet, would cost approximately $845 at La Mer Resort & Spa, a luxurious 5-star hotel.
On a governmental level, Israel might be extending its hand in peace to its Muslim neighbors, but when it comes to opening our doors to people of different faiths and backgrounds, we have much to learn, especially on the basic hospitality level.
We say we love our country, but we litter it with trash. Israel’s GDP is among the highest in the Western world, yet we cannot afford to live here, and we’re pricing out many tourists.
And we continue to lose the decades-old PR battle.
On the last day of our visit, Netanya and I rode ATVs through the Turkish forest. It was empowering. It was also an incredible look at how pristine the country’s landscape was and how welcoming the people were.
Guides who do not speak English have mastered speaking into Google Translate to convey what they want to say and using the phone to enable tourists to talk back. When the cab that was supposed to bring us back to our hotel didn’t show up, the manager of the ATV activity sent his employee in the company car to drive us to Istanbul at no cost.
He knew we were from Jerusalem, and he did mention that I shouldn’t send my kids to the army, but he didn’t hold it against me. He said that he hoped we would meet again sometime in the future.
It was hot and chaotic in the Turkish airport, but the three days we spent in Turkey revealed the diversity and tolerance that a Middle Eastern country like Israel could have and should learn to emulate.
The writer is deputy CEO – strategy and innovation for The Jerusalem Post and a senior correspondent. She also co-hosts the podcast Inside Israeli Innovation.