Petra on a shoestring for backpackers

  (photo credit: INGIMAGE)
(photo credit: INGIMAGE)

Jordan boasts one of the most spectacular New Wonders of the World - the Lost City of Petra - built out of rose-colored rock and lost for hundreds of years.  Both beautiful and mysterious, no wonder it’s such a popular travel destination and on many a bucket list.

What backpackers want to know, however, is “Can it be seen on a tight budget?” and the good news is a resounding ‘yes’.  Like Israel, the country isn’t as cheap as chips, but there are still ways you can visit Petra without breaking the bank.

From Jerusalem / Tel Aviv to Petra overland

While many travelers choose to take a Petra tour from Jerusalem or Tel Aviv, you can just use Israel’s public transport - it's reliable and cheap: a direct bus from Jerusalem to Eilat is just 70 NIS (from Tel Aviv it costs 80 NIS). Then from the bus station, take it by cab to the border (a 10-minute ride) or catch a city bus that will drop you a fifteen-minute walk away.  

Pay your Israel exit tax, purchase a visa on the spot (cost: 40 JOD/$56), walk through then grab a cab on the other side which will take you to Aqaba - if you’re traveling solo, find a partner in crime to split this expense with!  Also, if you’re planning to stay more than three consecutive nights in Jordan, consider purchasing the ‘Jordan Pass’.  Starting at $105, depending on your timeframe, it will waive both your visa fee and entry to Petra (a real bonus, when queues for the site can be long in the morning).

From Aqaba to Wadi Musa, the sherut vans leave regularly, as soon as they’ve filled up, and a ticket will set you back a mere $9. From there, It’s a two-hour drive to the desert and the lost Nabatean city.

Budget Accommodation in Petra

Accommodation in Petra is going to be one of your biggest expenses but the good news is that there are alternatives to luxury resorts…

Petra Boxtel hostel is close to the bus station and offers ‘capsule’ rooms (compact but clean) at $30 per night for two, shared bathrooms with plenty of hot water, and a wonderful roof terrace plus a good-value restaurant, it’s a great bang for your buck.

Paradise Tree guesthouse is also good value - a short walk up the hill, it has twin/triple/quadruple rooms (costing from $30-65), a living area, and a common kitchen (so you can save on eating out).  Dinner, laundry, and shisha pipes are extra but a basic breakfast is included.

Petra Cloud 1977 is a great option for those traveling on a budget, though it's 1.5 lm from the Visitors Centre - it has a fully-equipped kitchen with microwave, kettle, and fridge and clean shared bathrooms.   The owner, Waleed, is very friendly, there are plenty of local restaurants nearby, and starting at $30 for a double, what’s not to like?

Seven Wonders Bedouin Camp - some kilometers outside Wadi Musa (but they offer a transfer service) is the Seven Wonders camp and although it’s the most costly of the ‘shoestring’ options it’s still good value, at around $80 for a double bed in a tent, with breakfast included.  Beautiful night landscapes and sitting around a campfire make for a very authentic desert experience.

Petra Entry Fees 

Exploring Petra takes time, so opt for a ticket for 2/3 days - either $75 or $85 and extremely cost-effective compared to a day pass.  Carry a reusable water bottle (tap water in Jordan is safe) and carry snacks and/or a packed lunch (there are supermarkets in Wadi Musa, in which you can pick up food). 

Once inside, avoid the tourist traps of donkeys and carriages - opting to walk around the site alone won’t cost you a dime and  Whilst a guide is a good way to learn more about the city’s chequered past, it’s not by any means essential

Of course, if you find yourself exhausted and overly ravenous, there’s the Basin restaurant close to the Monastery, where you can splurge and enjoy a buffet lunch for $25 or just order a soft drink whilst you relax and enjoy the view.

Affordable Dining Options in Wadi Musa

Everyone’s got to eat and exploring an enormous archaeological site for hours on end can leave you both tired and ravenous.   So if you don’t want to cook in a common kitchen, head out.  Whilst there isn’t much in the way of street food in Wadi Musa, there are a few places, all downtown, where you can grab something to eat at a reasonable price.

Al Arabi - if you like good food with no frills, then head to Al Arabi where you can tick into kebab sandwiches and chicken shawarma.  The fresh juices are wonderful, the mixed grill great and they do a mean Mansaf (traditional Jordanian fare). Unpretentious and great to visit after a long hike.

Petra Magic - this restaurant serves buffet lunches which are excellent value for money, at around $15 without soft drinks. For this, you’ll get a range of soups, falafel, grilled meat and fish, vegetables and salads, plus desserts.  A good place to fill up.   

Jordan Heart - with solid portions, and friendly staff, this is another great option - especially the mezzes.  Vegetarians and vegans are catered for too (not always easy in Jordan) - the eggplant Fatah is excellent and hummus to die for!

Yummy Bite - serves several delicious pizzas and sandwiches and not only are the prices fair but the portions are large.  (Stop there early in the morning, en route to the site, and pick yourself up some lunch).

Finally, for those who can’t face the planning involved - you can look for an organized tour. These may cost a little more than doing it yourself, but they’ll save you plenty of hassle and give you the opportunity to make new buddies.

What are you waiting for?

This article was written in cooperation with Bein Harim Tourism Services