During the parts of the Middle Ages, Sicily was under Islamic rule, with the largest island in the Mediterranean being seized from the Byzantine Empire and incorporated into dar al-Islam, the countries ruled by Muslims. The Emirate of Sicily was under the control of Ifriqiya and then the Fatimid Caliphate before it was eventually conquered by the Normans in 1091. However, Muslims remained a majority on the island until the 13th century.
With such a major Muslim presence for four centuries, one might think that the agricultural and culinary habits on the island would have been influenced. And evidence does show this, as the study, published in the online academic journal PLOS ONE, does note the introduction of Islamic agricultural innovations, resources and techniques.
But it wasn't just Muslims living there. Throughout the centuries, Christian and Jewish communities lived side by side with their Muslim neighbors. While this is far from unprecedented in the Islamic world, which frequently had Christians and Jews, recognized as "People of the Book," living in its countries, Sicily was especially pluralistic, and its central location in the Mediterranean made it an important commercial hub.
And while residents of major cities like Palmero were found to abide by Islamic dietary laws, those in rural areas were another story.
A chemical analysis of food residue on ceramics and cooking pots in Sicily conducted by the study's lead author, University of York's Dr. Jasmine Lundy, found that those living in rural areas of Sicily ate "pigs, dairy products and grapes."
The presence of pig consumption isn't entirely unexpected. After all, wine was frequently brought and traded in Islamic Sicily despite being banned in Islamic law. However, the question of whether Muslim farmers in rural Sicily kept secret pig farms is something raised by this study.
It is possible, too, that Muslim farmers kept pig farms without consuming any pigs. This happened in Morocco in the early 2000s, when pig farming began to spike among Moroccan farmers to help the country's tourism industry. Indeed, while many countries in the Middle East today ban pig farming – such as Algeria, Libya and Israel – the practice remains legal in others, like Morocco and Tunisia.
The study is one of several recent looks into the religious dietary habits in the medieval period.
Recent studies regarding medieval England found that Jews at the time kept kosher, refraining from eating pigs and shellfish, despite evidence suggesting they frequented the same food markets as their Christian neighbors.
By contrast, recent studies have found that kashrut laws, particularly regarding fish, were not strictly observed in ancient Judea. A recent Israeli study found that the consumption of non-kosher fish – specifically catfish and sharks – was very common up until and including the Persian period (586 BCE-332 BCE).
However, there seems to be significant support for the fact that despite eating non-kosher fish, ancient Jews, too, refrained from eating pork.Rossella Tercatin and Jerusalem Post Staff contributed to this report.