Oh, my Goshen

The food at this kosher restaurant in Tel Aviv is so good, you can’t even tell the desserts are parve.

By YONI COHEN
Goshen 311 (photo credit: Courtesy)
Goshen 311
(photo credit: Courtesy)
Many people say that for good quality kosher meat restaurants, you have to go to Jerusalem because Tel Aviv doesn’t have that much to offer.
However, there are a few exceptions, and Goshen (Nahalat Binyamin 37) is one of them.
It's rather unassuming location on the quiet part of Rehov Nahalat Binyamin is not the most inviting. However, once inside, Goshen is a great space that is well designed and has a classy yet fast-paced atmosphere.
I checked out Goshen with a friend on mine who was visiting from out of town. We were very well taken care of by a host of young women who all spoke fluent English and were more than happy to help throughout the meal. We ordered a bottle of Gamla Merlot (NIS 145), which is quite a standard kosher wine but did the job nicely.
To start the meal, we ordered a portion of the house focaccia (NIS 20), which came with a selection of dips. It was seasoned with Atlantic sea salt and rosemary, giving it an added kick.
For someone who loves goose liver, I was very excited when I saw it in the form of carpaccio on the specials menu (NIS 42). I had never eaten it like this before, and it sounded so intriguing that I couldn’t wait to try it. I was not disappointed. The rich flavor, along with the unique texture, was a real winner. I can honestly say it was one of the most ambitious and satisfying dishes I have eaten in quite some time.
My friend ordered the slightly less ambitious lamb kebab served with tomato and tehina (NIS 38.) Although the flavors were less unique than the first dish, it was still a tasty blend that worked well together. The lamb was well cooked, and the Middle Eastern style seasoning and accompaniments complemented it.
The selection of main dishes was quite overwhelming, and after some very careful deliberation we came to our decisions. I went for the beef fillet medallions (NIS 145) because I was assured by our very helpful waitress that I would not be disappointed. She was right. I am not the greatest steak lover, so for me to enjoy it, the meat has to be extra special. I ordered it medium rare, and it was so soft that it melted in my mouth. It was lightly seasoned and cooked to perfection. Kosher steaks sometimes have a bad reputation, but this is one to add to the list of winners. It was accompanied by mashed root vegetables, which were a great addition to the dish.
Even though we tried not to be boring and order similar items from the menu, my friend just couldn’t resist taking the 500- gram entrecote steak (NIS 150.) (A 300g option is available for NIS 98.) We were told that this dish had recently won a coveted award, so we had high expectations. Again, we were not disappointed. This dish was served with sauteed green beans and pappas fritas, which again complemented the great taste of the meat. We also sampled some of the chicken breast and lamb chops, which `were delicious.
Although we didn’t have much room left for dessert, we ordered two of the richest on the menu. I went for the double serving of souffle, which came in nougat and chocolate (NIS 36). Each souffle was served in its own cup with a generous helping of vanilla ice cream in the middle. When a souffle is done well, it is hard not to like it, and these two were done very well. Needless to say, we polished them off quickly. It is always a pleasure when you can’t even tell whether a dessert is parve or not.

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Even though we shared everything, my friend ordered a cherry tarte tatin (NIS 38), which was a special of the day. I don’t usually like fruity desserts, but this one was great, and again it was hard to tell that it was in fact parve.
Good quality kosher meat restaurants are surprisingly scarce in Tel Aviv, but Goshen sets the standard high and is a good example for others to follow. The unique interior design, great service and delicious food make for an enjoyable night out.
Goshen is a great place for visitors to Tel Aviv who are craving a good kosher meat meal and are willing to pay that little bit extra for it.
The writer was a guest of the restaurant.

Goshen, Kosher. Nahalat Binyamin 37, Tel Aviv. Tel: (03) 560-0766.

Sunday to Friday noon till midnight. Friday noon till one hour before Shabbat. Saturday one hour after Shabbat until midnight.