Puglia, in southern Italy, has long been a dependable source for excellent wines. This week, a tasting of wines from the San Marzano Winery, located in Salento, reveals classic Puglian characteristics. Here, the primary grape varieties are Primitivo and Negroamaro, with the region’s soil lending distinct qualities to the wines. Modern winemaking techniques ensure high technical standards while keeping the wines accessible, without sacrificing the strong presence of terroir and varietal character.
San Marzano’s red wines showcase excellent fruit, evident spices, and a refined elegance. The price point is also notably modest, given the winery's location in a less-marketed region compared to northern Italian counterparts. In fact, some wines in this tasting offer impressive, even rare, value. One standout example is the "San Marzano, Primitivo Salento Il Pumo 2022," a wine offering exceptional quality for just 49 shekels.
Other San Marzano wines also deliver great value. These reds balance elegant softness with bold fruit and noticeable spice, plus a hint of sweetness. These are wines that provide an option for excellent, approachable drinking at an affordable price. It's likely these wines will become a hit in Israel’s wine shops. Cheers!
San Marzano, Primitivo Salento Il Pumo 2022
A semi-dry red made from Primitivo grapes grown in densely planted vineyards in the Salento area of Puglia. Fermented in temperature-controlled steel tanks. The wine is garnet-red, with red fruit and spice on the nose. Medium-bodied with 13.5% alcohol.
Price: NIS 49
Best with: Carpaccio and beef tartare, minute steak, kebab
Reviewer’s note: Abundant fruit, rich spice with a strong black pepper note, good acidity, softness, and balance. An unpretentious wine with an impressive depth of flavor. Exceptional value.
Value for Money: 5/5 (Outstanding)
A semi-dry white made from Fiano grapes grown in northern Taranto. Cold-crushed, fermented in temperature-controlled steel tanks, and briefly aged on the lees before bottling. Golden in color, with aromas of white and tropical fruit and floral notes. Medium-bodied with 12.5% alcohol.
Price: NIS 59
Best with: Fish and seafood
Reviewer’s note: Good fruit, floral notes, and spice. A relatively lush palate with balanced acidity. A delicate sweetness, almost subtle. Not too cold is best; allow at least 30 minutes after opening to let it open up. Affordable and promising, even with some aging potential.
Value for Money: 4/5 (Very good)
A semi-dry rosé made from Primitivo grapes from Salento, Puglia. Short skin maceration in temperature-controlled tanks. Pink in color, with a fruity nose and a light touch of spice. Light to medium-bodied with 12.5% alcohol.
Price: NIS 59
Best with: Sandwiches, pizza, salads, picnics
Reviewer’s note: A rosé with a notable fruit profile, mildly spiced, with a delicate sweetness. Not the most distinguished rosé, but a fun, well-priced choice suitable for a variety of weather and casual occasions.
Value for Money: 3.5/5 (Good)
A semi-dry red made from Primitivo grapes from the Talo di Manduria area in Puglia. Dense plantings, 10-day maceration at controlled temperature, and six months of aging in French and American oak barrels. Deep red with ripe red fruit and spices on the nose. Medium-full-bodied with 14% alcohol.
Price: NIS 59
Best with: Steaks, lamb chops
Reviewer’s note: A step up from the base wines, with richer fruit and stronger spices. The body is more substantial, with a pleasant sweetness and good acidity. The palate also reveals chocolate, tobacco, and a hint of vanilla. A wine of good quality for its price.
Value for Money: 3.5/5 (Good)
Negroamaro grapes from vineyards near San Marzano and Villa Fontana in Puglia. Long maceration (18–25 days) and 12 months in French and American oak barrels. Dark red, nearly black in color, with black fruit on the nose. Full-bodied with 13.5% alcohol.
Price: NIS 49
Best with: Meats, mature cheeses, chocolate
Reviewer’s note: Full-bodied with concentrated black fruit, elegant intensity, and a velvety touch. A wine with reserved yet impactful flavors; subtly bold.
Value for Money: 4/5 (Very good. Wines of this quality often cost significantly more.)
A semi-dry red made from Primitivo grapes from 60-year-old vines in San Marzano’s Primitivo di Manduria center. Grown in iron-rich soil with low yields. Temperature-controlled fermentation and 12 months in French and American oak. Dark, deep red with rich red and black fruit, abundant spice, and tobacco. Full-bodied with 14.5% alcohol.
Price: NIS 134
Best with: Large, bone-in cuts, beef, lamb stews
Reviewer’s note: Full-bodied without being overly muscular, with abundant fruit and spice, subtle sweetness, and a rich, expressive profile. Avoids bombastic qualities, making it well-suited to aged cheeses and even chocolate. Excellent example of its type with great value.
Value for Money: 4/5 (Very good)
