First and foremost, Pinot Gris comes with all the formal accolades: a long history, familial ties (as a mutation, but let's not nitpick) to the noble Pinot Noir, and complex, deep products, particularly from the Alsace region.
However, in my opinion, the charm of Pinot Gris, or Pinot Grigio as it's known in Italy where it migrated from France, lies in its simplicity. It's the light-hearted approach to life. It's the unpretentious wines produced from it around the world, in Italy, and even in Israel.
Generally speaking (though generalizations can be rough), it has fruitiness, freshness, and minerality, without sharpness, heaviness, or butteriness. My connection to this variety, and not just to it, is part of a personal trend of weariness from demanding and somewhat overbearing varieties. Especially in the world of white wines.
In the most precise description I can think of, Pinot Gris (Grigio) is one of the charming ones. A friendly wine, an active partner in a cheerful outing, one that doesn't take well to solemnity and deep discussions right now. Needless to say, it's classic for hot and even oppressive days like these. Well, I said it anyway.
Years ago, I worked with a colleague, albeit in the journalism industry, who used to request, "Don't make it complicated." I think Pinot Gris would have fit perfectly working alongside him.
Its greatness lies in its simplicity. It makes things pleasant. When it comes to light Pinot Gris wines, that's exactly the point. Personally, I like my Pinot Gris in a light-hearted mood, on a balcony, by the beach, or next to an air conditioner, without heavy foods to overshadow it and without problematic human factors to cloud my mind. Not that there's much left of it anyway.
For me, Pinot Gris, or Grigio, I don't care, is a wine that doesn't force me to think too much, concentrate too much, or listen too much to it or to others. It has just one humble, yet crucial role: to cheer the soul. To illustrate, here are three accessible Pinot Gris wines commonly found in the Israeli market, two from here and one from France.
Teperberg Winery, Essence, Pinot Gris 2023Clear and fresh, delicate on the nose and palate, with emphasized minerality and acidity. The body is light, the drinking is easy - and it improves, from experience, with light foods, from grissini to non-aggressive cheeses. Price: NIS 79.
Le Belle Angel, Pinot GrisA wine made from grapes from southern France, dark golden in color, with aromas of citrus fruits and melon and a lightly sharp acidity. It's one of those young, light, and inexpensive wines that manage to show character. Price: NIS 55.
Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, Pinot Gris 2023Starts with young aromas of light fruits, continues to a rich, dry, and sharp taste, and knows how to hold the palate even at the end of the sip. It invites food, just not anything that will overshadow it. Price: NIS 75.
