Amid the most severe cost-of-living crisis the country has ever experienced, a fascinating and troubling phenomenon is unfolding in the market of Israel's national dish—the falafel. Two parallel worlds now coexist: Gourmet restaurants offering a falafel plate for NIS 35, versus humble stalls selling the same basic dish for just NIS 8.
This dramatic price gap is not just a symptom of a shifting market; it reflects a profound change in Israeli consumer culture.
On January 18, we celebrate National Falafel Day, a tradition established by the late David Leitner, affectionately known as Dugo. This date, which symbolizes resilience and survival (on this day, Dugo participated in the Auschwitz death march), provides a unique opportunity to examine the transformation of Israel's most beloved street food.
"Learn from Tel Aviv"
A comprehensive survey we conducted at more than 50 falafel stands across the country reveals an alarming picture: The average price of a falafel plate in Israel is NIS 24, with price gaps of up to 300% between locations. While hidden corners still offer plates for NIS 8, some places dare to charge NIS 35 for the same basic dish.
"This just doesn't make sense," argues Yaakov, a veteran falafel stand owner in Bnei Brak who still sells plates for NIS 10. "The cost of raw ingredients for a basic plate is NIS 4–5. Businesses charging over NIS 40 for a falafel plate and drink will soon find themselves empty. Today, the public is looking for ways to cut expenses, not luxuries."
A particularly surprising trend was noted in Arab towns in central Israel and the Sharon region. Although prices there remain below the national average, there has been a dramatic 85% increase over the past two years. In Kafr Qasim, Kafr Bara, and Jaljulia, a plate that cost NIS 13–15 in 2022—including a drink—has now jumped to NIS 25–28.
"Learn from Tel Aviv. If they can charge that there, we can charge it here too," one customer remarks cynically. Issa, a contractor from Kafr Qasim, reflects the changing reality: "I used to buy falafel for all my workers. Today, that's no longer possible."
Come to Bnei Brak
The survey reveals significant price differences between cities. Jerusalem leads with an average price of NIS 25.3 for a falafel plate, followed by Kfar Saba (NIS 23.1) and Petah Tikva (NIS 22.8). Fourth is Netanya (NIS 22.9), fifth is Tel Aviv (NIS 21.2), and sixth is Haifa (NIS 21.4). Below the NIS 20 mark are Beersheva (NIS 19.6), Bnei Brak (NIS 18.7), and Kafr Qasim (NIS 13.3).
"Falafel is at a crossroads today," concludes Yaakov. "Those trying to turn it into a gourmet product forget that its charm has always been its simplicity—a tasty, nutritious, and filling dish at a fair price."
The long lines still seen at traditional falafel stands indicate that the public is voting with their feet. While "gourmet" restaurants compete with regular restaurants over similarly priced dishes, traditional falafel remains a pillar of stability in a turbulent economic reality. The big question is whether it will be able to maintain its modest character in the future.