Full Disclosure: I love Jerusalem. True, it’s one of the more challenging cities for me in Israel. I don’t think I could ever live there, certainly not visit on a weekly basis.
But I genuinely can’t explain the "Jerusalem Syndrome" I suffer from every time I have to travel to the city, which happens every now and then.
For me, Jerusalem in winter is like a slice of Europe: antiquity, freezing cold, visible breath in the air, the spirit of S.Y. Agnon hovering above, and crisp mountain air.
First Tip: If you need or want to head to the united city, leave your car at home. Driving is just frustrating—you’ll get lost on the way back, face massive traffic jams, and won’t be able to fully enjoy my recommendations.
If there’s one good thing the Ministry of Transportation has done in its history, it’s probably the renovation of the train to Jerusalem. I do miss the old train that used to go as far as the Biblical Zoo, occasionally stalling on the inclines near Beit Shemesh.
More than once or twice, we’d wait there to be rescued by buses that took us to the city. But when it didn’t break down, it was the most scenic ride in the area.
Recently, after quite some time, I found myself returning to the Jerusalem of gold—and wine. Not before dressing as if for skiing in the French Alps and preparing to eat as much falafel as possible, buy spices and random knick-knacks for my kitchen counter, and drink as much wine as I could since I arrived by train.
My FOMO hit hard when I remembered I could always stop at the wineries in the Jerusalem outskirts along the way. “How can I skip Castel, Agur, Flam, Sphera, and Seahorse?” I lamented to myself. But it’s complicated without a designated driver. Plus, there’s no shortage of places to drink in the city itself.
Winebar
We started our visit with a pastry, followed by lunch, and then another burek, which I’ll cover in a separate column. But I knew the first glass of wine would be at a place I’d visited before—a charming wine bar from the Talbiya group, open even on Shabbat. God knows that’s no small thing in Jerusalem.
It’s located on Gaza Street (not far from an address you might already know) and offers one of the richest wine menus I’ve encountered, at student-friendly prices. There are some cheeses and delightful snacks that vary, friendly staff, and a vibe that’s as quintessentially Jerusalem as it gets—in the best way possible.
Where: 28 Gaza Street
When: Sunday–Friday, from 5:00 PM, Saturday, from 12:00 PM
Nagid 12
You don’t have to be a foodie to know about Mona and its reputation as one of the best restaurants in the city. Now Mona also has a lovely wine garden with food, music, and excellent wines.
The venue also hosts themed evenings and intriguing wine tastings with industry guests. It’s a lively place that’s always packed, so if you’re planning a visit, make sure to reserve a spot in advance.
Where: 12 Shmuel Hanagid Street
When: Sunday–Friday, from 7:00 PM, Saturday, from 5:00 PM
Blend 5
This is one of the city’s more upscale wine bars, but also a casual spot you can drop by after a market tour. No need to overthink your outfit or hunger level.
Blend 5 boasts a massive wine wall. After a quick check, I discovered it features no less than 150 different types of wine from around the world, with a strong presence of Israeli wines, including many from wineries surrounding Jerusalem.
There’s great food, but the wine takes center stage. Don’t miss their happy hours with 1+1 deals on wine, beer, and cocktails. By the way, Blend 5 is run by the owners of the veteran “Adom” restaurant, and it’s also open on Shabbat.
Where: 41 Hillel Street
When: Sunday–Friday, from 6:30 PM, Saturday, from 2:30 PM
Eshkol Wine
If you’ve made it to Mahane Yehuda Market, “Eshkol Wine” is a small, local, and quintessentially Jerusalemite wine bar, just as you’d imagine, with boutique Israeli wines and cheeses.
Since it’s cozy and homey, it’s also a great spot to sit alone. A hot recommendation to accompany your wine: salmon bruschetta.
Where: 3 HaEshkol Street
When: Sunday–Thursday, from 6:00 PM, Friday, from 10:00 AM until an hour before Shabbat starts