What makes Flame very different from other high-end restaurants is that almost everything on the menu – from starters to mains and even some desserts – is passed over an open flame before serving.
The restaurant, in Tel-Aviv’s Carlton Hotel, is presided over by chef Oren Asido, who recently returned from an extended period in Gaza where he served on reserve duty.
For Asido, 31, being appointed head of the kitchen at Flame is the closing of a circle, having begun his career 10 years ago in the nearby kosher restaurant, Lumina.
When we arrived recently for an early dinner, we were pleasantly greeted by the friendly staff and seated at a table overlooking the beach, still full of bathers and people playing football and matkot, or strolling around and enjoying the city at its most beautiful – sunset.
We ordered pre-dinner drinks – my choice was a cocktail called Verde Fuego, consisting of gin, basil, apples, lemon, and yuzu (NIS 56). Like most cocktails, it was only mildly alcoholic but very refreshing and I drank it throughout meal. My companion, who dislikes the sweetness of cocktails, enjoyed a Whiskey Sour.
Our two starters were Moroccan frena with madbucha, roasted eggplant, and za’atar (NIS 29) and grilled leeks in olive oil (NIS 39).
Frena is vegan bread and the dips were all really spicy without burning the gullet. The leeks had a faintly burnt flavor and the dish, although very simple, made for a satisfying starter.
More starters appeared and, of course, we had to try them all. There was a gazpacho, bright orange and cold, served with a long cracker on which were perched small cubes of raw tuna.
Another starter was a bruschetta with hot tongue slices. The very tender meat, served with caramelized onions, was delicious.
Yet another starter was something called shaitel which is not just something that an Orthodox woman wears on her head, but also apparently, a cut of tender meat, possibly rump steak. It was faintly pickled and topped with olive oil and chopped shallots.
We still had not even begun on the main courses and I was wondering if I could eat any more. I had ordered a skewer of farida fish in carrot sauce and when it arrived, it was a mercifully small amount of food. (NIS 89).
My companion had the lamb spare ribs with bok choy and salad (NIS 127). It was very soft and flavorsome and silence reigned as he proceeded to perform surgery on the dish.
We tried to avoid dessert, but the wait staff ignored our pleas and arrived with two items from the dessert menu, one lemony and one chocolatey, both beautifully presented with edible leaves and fresh raspberries.
Flame is a top-notch restaurant with inventive dishes, great service, and a welcoming ambiance. Just the place for a very special evening out.
Flame
Carlton Hotel.
Eliezer Peri, 10. Tel-Aviv.
Open: Sun.-Thurs. 6 – 11 p.m.
Kashrut: Rabbinate Tel-Aviv.
The writer was a guest of the restaurant.