Claro’s summer gourmet dishes celebrate the fruit of the vine

The upscale farm-to-table restaurant Claro, one of the culinary anchors of the Sarona Compound, is always seeking to innovate. This month, a special menu – headlined with the name of Chef Tal Feigenbaum alongside founder Ran Shmueli – is dedicated to one of Israel’s seven biblical species: the fruit of the vine, which appears prominently as an ingredient in a number of dishes interspersed among the restaurant’s usual offerings.

To come up with these innovative dishes, Claro has interpreted the fruit of the vine in its broadest sense to include grapes, raisins and vine leaves, as well as the liquids derived therefrom: wine, grape juice concentrate, grape syrups and even grape honey. The special menu is set to run through the first week of August. 

There is also one specialty cocktail that has been concocted for the occasion: Napoleon (NIS 52), a refreshing blend of potent spirits sweetened with grape syrup and garnished with fresh, plump white and purple grapes, plus a large sprig of mint. Additionally, an interesting selection of wines – classified by color – has been curated to pair with the menu for the event: white, pink, orange and red. 

While the four untitled sections of the regular food menu – Appetizers, Starters, Intermediate dishes and Main courses – have been retained during this month, the special grape dishes are not evenly dispersed throughout. Most, in fact, were to be found in the Starters category. 

And that is where we commenced our meal, with Grouper Tartare (NIS 68). The diced morsels of extremely fresh raw fish floated like an island in a lake of gazpacho made from white grapes, along with celery and Armenian cucumber. Grouper is always a winning choice when it comes to fish tartare, but the delicious cold soup stole the show, making for an ideal summer entree.

Next came the Bresaola (NIS 68), with a distinctive thematic twist: the razor-thin slices of dried beef had been marinated in Claro wine, then layered with roasted peach on a long, dark bruschetta that had been moistened with spiced grape honey. The juxtaposition of savory with sweet was a pleasing counterpoint in what turned out to be a surprisingly filling starter. 

THE CATEGORY of intermediate-sized dishes presented us with two grape-based options – both involving lamb – of which we chose the Lamb and Raisins Cigars (NIS 92). This pair of cylinders of phyllo dough were fried to a perfect golden brown and filled with flavorful ground lamb and raisins. What really enhanced this dish, however, were the two outstanding condiments: a most unusual garlic-and-grape dipping sauce, and spiced yogurt sprinkled with sumac and dried mint. 

When we got to the main courses, we confessed to the wait staff that we were puzzled: Only one of the 11 dishes reflected the theme of the month, and even this lone option once again restricted us to lamb. We were told that the special menu is constantly rotating, and that the following night would feature fish with vine leaves. In the meantime, as a special gesture, they allowed us to order the monthly special from that afternoon’s lunch menu: Chicken Breast (NIS 98), served with freekeh studded with raisins and spinach. 

This substitution turned out to be serendipitous: the white meat chicken, which had been marinated in grape concentrate, was particularly moist and flavorful, while roasted clusters of grapes perked up both the poultry and the side of smoked wheat. 

Desserts were an embarrassment of riches when it came to the theme of grapes and raisins. We opted for the surprise that was making its Claro debut: Tres Leches (NIS 56), a classic Mexican sweet that is a rarity in Israel altogether. The Spanish name means “three milks,” and the centerpiece is white cake drenched in a blend of milk in three forms: regular, condensed and evaporated. The version here was enhanced with port wine, poached grapes and plenty of slivered candied almonds – adding up to a rich delight that would be a fitting finale to any meal. 

In general, the idea of a theme revolving around a venerable food in Jewish tradition is commendable, and has the added benefit of inspiring welcome creativity. It is to be hoped that Claro will rise to the occasion again – perhaps with pomegranates, whose season is just around the corner.