I’ll be honest. Crete isn’t my first Greek island of choice. I much prefer the smaller ones that see less foot traffic during busy season. That said, as Greece’s largest island, Crete is ideal for many types of travelers as it encompasses options for everyone – families, couples, friends, and solo adventurers alike.
And with so many direct flights not just from Athens, but from countries all over Europe, it’s the ideal option for a long weekend or week-long getaway this season for those who despise a layover and are keen to get a feel for top-notch Cretan hospitality.
Here are my top picks on the island to get a taste of sea, city, mountains, and more.
First, beach.
If you’re like me, you’re heading to Greece for the water. Opt for Chania and stay right on the shore at my favorite boutique spot: Ammos Hotel. I’ve been here twice and it never disappoints. Run by owner Nikos Tsepetis, Ammos is all about airy and contemporary decor, quality service, and tasty local dishes. In the morning you’ll find freshly baked breads – from olive loaves and sourdough to a tasty rye – and pastries waiting for you downstairs, hailing from Tsepetis’s Red Jane Bakery in Chania’s city center.
In fact, the hotelier enlisted a London-based designer to transform the industrial foundry into a bakery, and Eyal Schwartz, former head baker at E5 Bakehouse in London, to craft the menu.
After grabbing a cup of joe at Red Jane, head straight to Old Town to weave through the shop-lined cobblestone streets, making your way to the port to visit the lighthouse. Take in the view, then walk on over to Etz Hayyim Synagogue, which holds Friday night services as well as daily tours in English. Once there you’ll hear the history of the local Jewish population as well as the revival of Crete’s only synagogue.
Peruse the clothing from Greek designer Parthenis and make sure to grab lunch or dinner in town at Salis to dig into plates of seafood and a never ending wine list, or head back to Ammos to enjoy hearty dishes and Cretan wines.
For those more keen on hitting up more beaches in addition to the one that Ammos sits on, my suggestions are Balos (my favorite) and Falassarna. Drive or take a taxi to both of them, and be prepared to lounge happily on cush chairs with 5-star drink and food service.
During high season, rooms at Ammos Hotel run €280/night, some with a two or three-night minimum stay. I love this seaside gem so much – along with its staff – that I fantasize about living here for three months at a time. Book it.
For those looking for something more luxe in Chania, The Tanneries Hotel & Spa is for you. Enjoy its minimalistic architecture and 20 luxurious rooms, placed on the waterfront of a sleepy area just a short drive from the city center. Dine at its restaurant, Periplous, or at the lively Greek tavern right across the way. Rooms in July will run you about €338/night.
When you’ve gotten your feel for the water, it’s time to head inland.
Then, mountains.
Drive 1.5 hours from Chania to Rethymno, a town enveloped in olive trees where you must stay at Kapsaliana Village Hotel. Here you’ll relax into rustic luxury as you wander through the restored olive oil mill that now boasts around 17 suites dripping in traditional stone, a stunning pool, and an on-site restaurant serving up Mediterranean cuisine including rooster and lamb. Make sure to ask for the secret vegetarian menu so you can dig into some homemade pasta topped with local salty Cretan cheese.
Life moves slower here, but there’s much to see.
Spend the morning walking to Arkadi Monastery, and the afternoon shopping for handcrafted ceramics at nearby Margarites Village. Head to Apithano Honey Museum for a tasting and tour of the honey farm, or opt for one of the hotel’s frequent olive and wine tastings. In summer evenings, Kapsaliana sets up an outdoor movie theater for guests where you can take in one of the latest films under the stars with snacks to boot.
Though Crete may not exude as much charm as smaller Greek islands, you’ll have an abundance to choose from for any type of adventure – from seaside views to colorful cityscapes.
Lauren Gumport is an avid traveler, travel writer, and VP of Communications at travel tech start-up, Faye Travel Insurance. Her travel tips have been featured in The Wall Street Journal, USA Today, BuzzFeed and more. Follow her on Instagram @gumport.