This summer, we shared the intriguing news of Castro's recruitment of acclaimed Israeli designer Alon Livné. Last Wednesday night, Livné unveiled his first drop for Castro's Fall-Winter 2024 line. One glance at a power suit with ultra-bold shoulders and sharp lapels was enough for me to declare: Castro is back—or more precisely, leveling up. Through a concise but precise capsule collection, Livné encapsulated the essence of what we'll want to wear this winter, endlessly mix-and-matching.
This isn't Livné's first collaboration with the beloved, veteran Israeli brand, which experienced a design and branding renaissance in 2021 with the appointment of Shani Dror as the studio's chief art director. In the past, Livné designed two capsule collections for Castro, each met with great success. This time, however, the collaboration is deeper and ongoing.
What prompted your return to work with Castro after almost a decade since your last collaboration in 2015? And why now?
"This partnership began over a year ago. Castro has always been a home for me, and the timing felt right for both sides. This time, we're embarking on a long-term, expansive collaboration across multiple categories."
How expansive, exactly? Livné reveals, to our delight, that it’s very broad: "The current collection is just the first glimpse of a long and creative partnership. As a designer, it's a great honor to work within Castro, which grants me creative freedom. In the future, we'll also present menswear collections and even a jewelry line designed by me—stay tuned."
Livné, who has been leaving his mark both in Israel and internationally for over a decade, began his professional journey in fashion at 17, working at Alexander McQueen's London fashion house alongside the late design legend. Five years later, he moved to Florence, Italy, where he collaborated with another fashion icon, the late Roberto Cavalli. Over the years, Livné accumulated accolades, from winning Project Runway Israel to becoming the first Israeli designer to regularly showcase collections at New York Fashion Week. His unique designs have since been worn by global stars such as Beyoncé, Lady Gaga, Ariana Grande, Kylie Jenner, Cardi B, and more. He also designed outfits for Eurovision performers Noa Kirel and Eden Golan.
The capsule collection Livné crafted for Castro delivers the perfect winter statement. The collection reflects Livné's signature style, blending classic and edgy elements, loud and quiet designs. "At the heart of my creation, I aim to reach all fashion lovers, bringing my design language to a broader audience with a precise, accessible collection," Livné explains. The collection embodies his geometric-sculptural signature, subtly present but unmistakable. "My design style is my DNA, and it naturally manifests in the collection," he says.
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So, what awaits you in Castro's limited edition?
A tailored, long wool coat with emphasized shoulders and waist, exuding edgy sophistication, available in classic black or deep wine red. Two “masculine” pant suits in this season's trendy colors (sure to sell like hotcakes). A maxi dress crafted with a knitting technique that creates transparency in diagonal lines, featuring slits, available in dark brown and black. An oversized faux-leather blazer, sheer blouses and pants, and a small but essential accessory—a designed bralette in autumnal hues of black, burgundy, dark brown, and gray, perfect under blazers or sheer items.
"The first drop is indeed a capsule collection—very wearable and timeless in its relevance," Livné sums up. "It includes classic pieces alongside trendy items, oversized suits, and garments with transparency and cutouts. Soon, another drop with new surprises will follow. This capsule is both focused and aimed at a broad female audience."
How do you translate your couture ideology into a commercial collection with more accessible prices? What do you 'give up,' and what do you 'gain'?
"Essentially, I don’t compare haute couture with commercial design; they're completely different platforms in terms of process and creation. When designing for a wide audience, I think about diverse sizes, ages, and heights—I think about everyone! The mindset changes; I want every woman to feel like a queen and proud of herself. That said, we never compromised on the fundamentals of quality materials, cuts, and sewing. The result exceeded all expectations—it's truly a 'wow.' I'm incredibly excited about the outcome," he exclaims.
As for sizing, the collection ranges from XS to XL (34–44), with Livné ensuring the "edge" sizes are generously proportioned—an XL that truly fits.
If you've been paying attention to your feed (or your screen), you've likely noticed the images and videos starring Israeli supermodel Bar Refaeli. Refaeli was chosen to lead the launch of this first drop, marking her reunion with Castro after 25 years.
What was it like working with Bar on this project?
"This wasn’t our first time collaborating, and working with Bar on this project was amazing. Beyond being one of the most beautiful women in the world, she's professional and pleasant. We respect each other greatly, and the collaboration with Castro and Persona's branding team (led by art director Tal Kleinbort) resulted in perfection. I'm so excited for everyone to see the final products and items."
For years, you've dressed A-list celebrities or brides on their big day. Do you feel relief when creating a collection for more casual, everyday situations, even though it bears your name? Is there less pressure?
"Everything I put my name on, I strive for perfection—whether it’s an outfit for Beyoncé or a first drop with Castro. The pursuit of excellence is the same. By the way, launching a collection with the largest fashion company brings high expectations from all directions."
Tell us about your dynamic with Castro—do you enjoy it and find it inspiring? How does it compare to being a solo designer in your studio?
"Above all, Castro feels like home to me. It’s the oldest fashion house, adept at spotting trends and opportunities. My work on the collection involves multiple departments at Castro—design, product, and marketing. It’s a collaborative effort, and I’m fully involved in every launch aspect. The process is enjoyable and inspiring for both sides. Creating within a major fashion house differs greatly from working solo in my studio, but it’s a challenge I embrace. I’ve discovered that within a large team environment, I can truly express myself. The women at Castro allow me to soar with my creativity. The collaborative atmosphere is respectful and supportive, sparking creativity, which is vital for me as a designer."
Alon Livné's Castro collection is a limited edition and is already available online, priced between NIS 99.9 and NIS 599. Starting today (December 5, 2024), it will also be available at Dizengoff Center, and from Friday (December 6), in all Castro stores.