A pop-up with a cause: Tel Aviv's ultimate comfort food - review

The meat was very rare and soft; on the side was a plate of pickled vegetables, sweet and slightly acidic.

Pop-up Shifra ‘Wrapped in Bread’ (photo credit: Courtesy)
Pop-up Shifra ‘Wrapped in Bread’
(photo credit: Courtesy)

One of the least-mentioned casualties of war is the huge loss for businesses around the country and, in particular, in the catering industry.

Shifra Mikhailovich lives in Meron HaGalil on the Golan Heights. “Wrapped in Bread,” her company, has been producing meat sandwiches for over 20 years. Over the years, she has welcomed visiting delegations from abroad, including AIPAC, as well as families and various groups.

The war put a stop to all that, and Shifra found herself cooking just for her immediate family, as tourists were no longer coming to the Golan.

Her life’s work, which she loved and with which she supported her family, ended in a day.

Finding a way forward

Ran Dor Hai, a businessman in charge of the DNA eating complex at the Azrieli Center, heard about Shifra’s dilemma and invited her to continue her work in Tel Aviv.

Pop-up Shifra ‘Wrapped in Bread’ (credit: Courtesy)
Pop-up Shifra ‘Wrapped in Bread’ (credit: Courtesy)

The majority of the eating places at the Azrieli Center are in caravans stationed around the space. Shifra is outside, working from a truck. We arrived for lunch and took a seat at a table near the food preparation area, savoring a gentle breeze that relieved the oppressive Tel Aviv heat.

The sandwiches are made in very fresh ciabatta loaves, cut in half, and stuffed with meat and vegetables. We tried two of them, one with sliced roast beef and the other with sliced rib. The additions are arugula leaves, slices of purple onion, tomatoes, and radishes. (NIS 58).

The meat was very rare and soft; on the side was a plate of pickled vegetables, sweet and slightly acidic. We tucked into our individual buns and savored every mouthful. We also tasted the vegetarian offerings, which included cooked red cabbage, nuts, eggplant, and plenty of greens. (NIS 56).

Shifra, who was helped by her sister Rahel, who lives in Tel-Aviv, insisted we also taste the chuck steak, which was left to cook overnight. It was very tasty – the ultimate comfort food. “Wrapped in Bread” has tables where one can sit and enjoy a meal. It also offers takeout.

Not only did we enjoy a very good meal, but we also felt like we made a tiny contribution to the war effort.


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Ground Floor, Azrieli Center.

Derech Menachem Begin, 132,Tel-Aviv.

Open: Sunday – Thursday, 12 – 10 p.m.Kashrut: Tel-Aviv Rabbinate and Tsohar.Wheelchair accessible.The writer was a guest of the restaurant.