In times of healing and war in Israel, we turn to music, community, and supporting small businesses as we try to live normally during a period that’s anything but.
The evolution of Tel Aviv’s Park Hamesila, built on the road of the old Ottoman railway that once connected Jaffa and Jerusalem, has resulted in a vibrant pathway nestled between Neve Tzedek and Florentine (Eilat Street), peppered with bustling coffee shops, music venues, bike paths, and grassy plots to play on.
The park has harnessed the appeal of grungy south Tel Aviv and the newness that comes with new shops opening, thanks to the increased foot traffic brought on by the Light Rail.
Frankly, Park Hamesila has kicked things up a notch in South Tel Aviv, enjoyed by locals and tourists alike, who can often be found taking a stroll, on date nights sitting on the benches dotting the pathway, or enjoying a picnic. Here’s where to go in the park for live music, top-notch food, and more when you come to visit.
Sounds
Easily my favorite venue for live music right now is Jazz Kissa. Simply put, it oozes sex appeal in a dimly lit wine bar just off the park, with music curated by Yonatan Levi, who spent years as a musician in both New York and Berlin, eventually moving his recording studio back to Tel Aviv. In fact, you’ll see him playing bass there quite often. Kissa marries the old with the new and is the ideal late-night spot to pop in to in order to see Israeli musicians from all over the country. Think you don’t like jazz? Think again.
For more music in the park, the clear option is Teder. A Tel Aviv institution, to say the least, recently saved from closure by Tel Aviv’s mayor, comes filled to the brim with options. You’ll find weekly shows in the main space boasting drums, vocals, keyboard, sax, guitar, and more, and you can enjoy other options within the smaller venues inside, such as vinyl at Nuweiba Records, where you can sip Negroni cocktails on tap.
Walk a little further away from the park to a small side street off of Jaffa Street and pop into Riaa HiFi, a small new bar that recently opened, offering a few live music events each month and top-notch records on repeat. And the best part? Riaa gets its food from Pizza Lila next door. So for an evening of fresh pizza washed down with a Negroni, it hits the spot.
Coffee, savory dishes, and sweets
Grab a coffee at Elifelet, the quaint new coffee shop near – you guessed it – the Elifelet stop on the red line. For a morning of fresh squeezed orange juice, a homemade sandwich or pastry, and a good cup of Joe, you can’t beat it.
Keen for more of a sit-down vibe? Head to nearby Beit Hanna HaRabi, the Beit Hanna team’s second location. A community center that offers yoga, pilates, ceramics classes, and a bustling cafe downstairs. The center is a great place to work, exercise, or dig into a great breakfast – choose from omelets and smoothies to freshly made sandwiches.
Situated in an old industrial building, which until recently was used as a sewing and knitting factory established in the middle of the last century, HaRabi aces the laid-back weekend vibe just steps from the park.
For the afternoon and evening, Eyal Shani has given us two options to choose from. For a dinner of fresh vegetables, seafood, pasta, and more Mediterranean delights in true Shani style (no personal plates, thankyouverymuch), Mirage is where it’s at. Order the green beans and tomato pasta – you won’t regret it. By the way, right behind Mirage is Kissa – so feel free to make it a dinner and a show type of night.
For those with a sweet tooth, head next door to Cassata, the chef and restaurateur’s latest venture, which is tucked away in a sleek gelato bar offering a mixture of flavors that are both odd and incredibly tasty. At Cassata, the menu changes like your socks, but if it’s available on the day you arrive, try the sage butter, sourdough, lavender honey, and lemon milk options – and grab a glass of wine while you’re at it. Their Instagram showcases the latest opening times, currently Wednesday through Saturday.
Centered
As both the north and south of the country face threats, your trip to Israel this year may be more focused on the center of the country. For those planning to come and looking to protect their trips, Faye Travel Insurance has a policy specifically for American travelers who still plan to visit, volunteer, and support family and friends during the conflict.
The writer is an avid traveler, travel writer, and VP of Communications at travel tech startup Faye Travel Insurance. Her travel tips have been featured in The Wall Street Journal, USA Today, BuzzFeed, and more.