The vibe at Eser, the new dairy restaurant at Ticho House, rivals the excellence of its dishes.
The restaurant opened last week with colorful, fresh, flavorful, approachable, and generous foods. Each item on the menu presents an enticing taste or a unique combination of flavors, tantalizing the palate with a delightful culinary experience.
Eser, created by the chef and owner of 1868 and the Zuta bar, has the upscale cocktails one would expect.
“We were working on this restaurant for a year, and the goal was to open in the middle of October. Then, like everyone else, we were surprised by the Black Shabbat,” said 23-year-old restaurant manager Roee Hevrony, who lost his best friend, Roi Nahari, on the first day of the war.
“We needed to add some nuance that would reflect that this business opened in the shadow of October 7,” Hevrony said. The last thing we developed was our cocktail menu, and we decided to wrap it into this cocktail specifically.”
Opening a business in the wake of the October 7 massacre
We Love U2 is a flamingo-colored cocktail with almond syrup – mixed like a margarita but sour and sweet at the same time. It is strong enough to sting at the first sip but leaves you feeling wow. It is named after the band U2, who paid tribute to those killed in the Supernova music festival.
The food is mainly fish, cheese, and vegetables. The spices are from all over the world. The focaccia comes with a spicy pepper salsa; the roasted asparagus on a delicate bed of garlic mashed potatoes; and the cod croquettes alongside a piccalilli cream.
A highlight is the white fish ceviche with pickled fennel, horseradish, and garlic cream.
“One of the flavors I brought with me when I lived in the United Kingdom is raw fish with horseradish,” said chef Yankale Turjeman. “It’s fresh cream, some dried Kalamata olives, the fennel that is in season now – you have the texture and the flavor combination.”
There is also the Jerusalem artichoke and truffle tortellini with beurre blanc, blue cheese, and candied seeds.
Turjeman said the menu is light and happy, cheesy but not creamy. He tries to use primarily Israeli ingredients.
“We are fixated on fish,” Hevrony said. “It is not easy in Jerusalem, but it is possible.”
“I felt that a quality kosher fish restaurant was missing in Jerusalem,” Turjeman added. “And I love fish. We work a lot with meat in 1868, and I think we do it well. We buy good meat, and we take care of it. We want to do the same thing here with fish.”
Beyond the food is the facade. A Muslim sheikh built the Ticho House. It was bought by Albert and Anna Ticho in 1924. Anna was an artist. When Anna died in 1980, she bestowed the house to the Israel Museum, which now hosts historical and contemporary exhibitions related to the house and Jerusalem.
The restaurant sits above the gallery and the house’s exquisite garden. Diners can experience all of these elements together.
Moreover, Turjeman and Hevrony said they tried to take a lot of the house and incorporate it into the restaurant. The plates, for example, are white with blue rings, reflecting the ancient ceilings. The light woods relate to the natural color of Jerusalem. The white chairs, with their arched backs, mirror the dining room’s arches.
Hevrony said they aim to turn Eser into a hub for young artists looking for a platform to play music, display their work, or even gather in the Holy City.
“It was not an easy decision to open during this time,” Turjeman said.
The restaurant sat vacant for around four years after its predecessor closed.
“We believe in what we do, and hopefully people will appreciate that and come visit us very soon,” he concluded. ■
- Name: Eser
- Location: 10 HaRav Agan St., Jerusalem
- Open: Sun.-Thu., 5 p.m.-11 p.m.
- Kashrut: Jerusalem Rabbinate
- Price: $$$
- Web: 1868.co.il
What's new in In Jerusalem?
- This week in Jerusalem: For your health
- A guide to Jerusalem real estate, construction boom, and traffic
- How Mayor Moshe Lion is transforming Jerusalem and preserving stability
- October 7 massacre survivor displays artwork in new exhibit
- Jerusalem's Rehavia neighborhood: A tapestry of culture, timeless landmarks
- Lori Palatnik: Giving newlywed IDF soldiers hope and a home to return to
- Eser: A restaurant where the vibes are as good as the food - review
- Grapevine: Celebrating Walter
- Jerusalem highlights January 12-18