According to rabbinic literature, the Sambation is a river beyond which the 10 tribes of Israel were exiled by the Assyrian king Sancheriv. It also is supposed to rage with rapids and flames six days a week and is impossible to cross but it stops flowing every Shabbat.
It’s a strange name for a cocktail bar, but owner Kfir Bahar says he sees it as a symbol of the unity of the Jewish people. The bar is tiny on Agron Street in Jerusalem, with just 25 seats in three seating areas.
The bartenders are all enthusiastic and with a detailed knowledge of the drinks on offer.
Getting the best drinks on offer
The bar is owned by Kfir and Leah Bahar. Jerusalemites who know the alcohol scene know that Kfir was the founder of Gatsby and has worked in several bars. Leah is the chef.
Elisha Roth, a charming young bartender who obviously loves what he does, first gave me a taste of the Apsentin wine which is made according to a recipe from the Mishna. It tasted of cloves and citrus with a long finish.
He suggested I try the Jethro (NIS 58) a concoction of Bombay sapphire gin washed with olive oil, honey zaatar, Greek yogurt, and lemon juice. I watched Elisha mix the cocktail and it was unlike any cocktail I have ever had before. The menu describes it as “sweet and sour, velvety, with a Mediterranean aroma and taste.” Works for me.
My favorite daughter had an Apsentonic, (NIS 54) made with the Apsentin wine described above mixed with tonic. The menu described it as “light, floral, and fizzy.” She enjoyed it but said she would have liked it a bit stronger.
For our second round, Elisha suggested the Tarshisha (NIS 64) which has El Jimador tequila, mezcal, pineapple, Baharat, lemon juice, and caramelized bananas. Again, unlike anything I’ve had, and really enjoyable. My daughter had a chocolate negroni (off-menu) that she said had plenty of alcohol and a nice chocolate taste.
In terms of food, the menu is very limited and is more like appetizers than a full meal. We had a bruschetta (which was just a thin piece of bread) with brie and honey (NIS 28), and another one with smoked tuna and Caesar dressing (NIS 45) and a salad with arugula, dried fruit, and feta cheese (NIS 28). Each of them was very good, although the portions were small. I’d like to see more food choices, although the kitchen is very tiny.
I watched Kfir, Elisha, and Shirley Ledgeley interact with customers as they entered the bar. They asked a lot of questions, and in several cases, offered tastes of various spirits, trying to make sure that each customer got the right drink for him or her.
“Bul! (On the nose),” said an older man at the bar. “You figured out exactly what I wanted.”
Sambation will be kosher for Passover and is well worth checking out. And if you’re a fan of day-drinking there is Happy Hour from 5 p.m.-7 p.m. with 35% off all cocktails on the menu.
- Sambation
- 22 Agron St., Jerusalem
- Hours: Sunday-Thursday, 5 p.m. till very late
- Saturday night from one hour after Shabbat
- Kashrut: Tzohar
The writer was a guest of the restaurant.