For those eager to step inside Tel Aviv’s historic Elkonin Hotel – a landmark 1913 building transformed into one of Neveh Tzedek’s premier boutique luxury hotels – there’s now an excellent reason to visit.
After reopening in 2022 with a non-kosher, seafood-forward restaurant, the team has reintroduced the space as Rova Alef, an upscale kosher fish and dairy dining experience.
Named after a district in Ashdod where chef Evyatar Malka grew up, Rova Alef is a tribute to his childhood near the port, blending family and neighborhood recipes with the flavors of modern Tel Aviv. Together with his business partner, Yonatan Greenberg (also of wine bar Winona Forever), Malka has created a restaurant that honors Ashdod – a city, he says, that is “rightfully proud of its food.”
A look at the Rova Alef restaurant
Tucked away on the quiet side street of the hotel, Rova Alef embraces the historic charm of the Elkonin – the city’s first hotel – while adding a welcoming aesthetic through warm tones, wood accents, lush greenery, delicate flowers, and intimate candlelight. The space flows seamlessly from a lively dining area with communal tables to a sleek interior featuring an open kitchen and a well-crafted bar – each element echoing the flavors and influences of Ashdod, Tel Aviv, and the broader Mediterranean.
For a front row seat to the action, grab a spot at the bar and explore a cocktail menu where timeless classics meet bold, Rova Alef twists. The Milk Punch (NIS 62) is a standout – smooth and smoky, blending cardamom-infused gin, white vermouth, grapefruit, passion fruit, and goat milk. Every classic drink has a sibling of sorts, inspired by either Ashdod or the Mediterranean, offering a fresh, playful take on familiar favorites.
Malka’s cuisine is a fusion of childhood nostalgia and culinary expertise, rooted in a deep respect for fresh fish, fire-based cooking techniques – from delicate sears to open-flame roasting – and a commitment to hands-on preparation from scratch.
We started our meal with the Brioche Challah served with butter and pickled peppers (NIS 32), followed by a selection of small plates of raw and pickled fish, which included the Lakerda Bruschetta (NIS 69) and Red on Red – red tuna sashimi with blood orange aguachile (NIS 94).
Next came the vegetable dishes: Cacio e Pepe-style Lima Beans (NIS 69) and Charcoal-Grilled Artichokes with za’atar gremolata and pistachios (NIS 82).
Saving room for the stars of the night, we went for two pastas: Seared Sweet Potato Agnolotti (NIS 96) and The King’s Daughter – bigoli pasta with lemon butter, artichokes, sourdough breadcrumbs, and Parmesan (NIS 102).
Admittedly, the prices might make you pause – especially the fresh fish mains, like the Red Mullet Sea Bass with ratatouille and gnocchi alla Romana (NIS 136) or the Dover Sole Meunière at an eye-watering NIS 370. But then again, you’re dining in Neveh Tzedek, inside a boutique luxury hotel – what else would you expect?
Hotel owner Dominic Romano has big plans for Elkonin’s next chapter, which include an open café on the entrance floor and a rooftop bar in the near future. And if you need another reason to visit, the rooftop pool is set to open in April – perfect timing for those planning a trip or a staycation. To book a stay: elkonintelaviv.com.
- Rova Alef
- Elkonin Hotel
- 9 Lilienblum Street, Tel Aviv
- Sun.-Thur., 6 p.m.-1 a.m.
- Kashrut: Tel Aviv Rabbinate
The writer was a guest of the restaurant.
Lauren Gumport is an avid traveler, travel writer, and VP of communications at the travel tech start-up Faye Travel Insurance. Her travel tips have been featured in The Wall Street Journal, USA Today, BuzzFeed, and more. Follow her on Instagram @Gumport.